A lovo is a Fijian feast cooked in an earth oven: a shallow pit of fire-heated stones, layered with root crops, leaf-wrapped meat and fish and vegetable dishes, then sealed with leaves and soil so the food steams and smokes slowly. It belongs to weddings, birthdays and family gatherings, where everyone helps with the work. Visitors usually meet it at a resort's weekly Fijian night, on a village visit, or at a hands-on cooking class near Nadi.
What the word lovo means
Lovo refers to the oven itself as much as the meal. As Tourism Fiji describes it, the lovo is the way Fijians cook for occasions that celebrate life and community, with families and friends contributing ingredients and labour. Preparing one takes most of a morning or afternoon, which is part of the point: a lovo is an event as much as a menu.
Similar earth ovens exist across the Pacific, such as the hangi in New Zealand and the umu in Samoa and Tonga, but the Fijian version has its own dishes and rhythm. Our guide to Fijian culture and traditions puts it in the wider context of village life and hospitality.
How a lovo is built, step by step
The method is simple in outline and takes real skill in practice, mostly in judging the heat of the stones and the timing.
- Dig the pit. A shallow hole is dug in the ground and lined with firewood.
- Heat the stones. Large river stones are piled over the wood and the fire is lit. The stones are ready when they are white-hot and smoking.
- Prepare the food while the fire burns. Coconuts are scraped and squeezed for fresh coconut cream, root crops are peeled, and meat and fish are wrapped in banana leaves or woven palm-leaf parcels.
- Line the stones. The embers are spread and the hot stones covered with a layer of green banana or palm leaves, so the food never touches the stone directly.
- Layer the food. Root crops go in first, closest to the heat, then the wrapped proteins, then the vegetable parcels on top.
- Seal it. More leaves go over the pile, then soil or sand to trap the heat and steam.
- Wait, then unearth. Tourism Fiji gives a cooking time of roughly one to two hours; larger lovo for big gatherings can take longer. The food is lifted out and laid on banana leaves to serve.
Traditionally the heavy work of tending the pit, peeling, scraping and wrapping falls to the men, while the women take charge of flavour and the side dishes. Children help by carrying coconuts and leaves.
What goes into a lovo
There is no single fixed menu, but most lovo are built from the same groups of ingredients:
| Layer | Typical foods | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom: root crops | Dalo (taro), cassava, sweet potato, yam (uvi) | Dense, smoky and soft; the backbone of the meal |
| Middle: proteins | Chicken, pork, beef, fish | Wrapped and slow-cooked until very tender |
| Top: vegetables | Palusami, pumpkin, breadfruit, eggplant | Leafy parcels rich with coconut cream |
Palusami is the dish most visitors remember: young taro leaves folded around coconut cream with onion, often with tinned corned beef or fish added. Namale Resort notes that meats are commonly marinated in coconut cream and spices before wrapping, and that much of the produce for its lovo is grown in its own gardens.
Vegetarians eat well at a lovo, as the root crops and leaf dishes are filling on their own. If you need a meat-free or dairy-free meal, say so when you book, as some parcels mix meat and vegetables. For more on the dishes you will see alongside a lovo, such as kokoda, see our guide to authentic Fijian cuisine.
Where visitors can join a lovo
You won't usually find lovo on an everyday restaurant menu, because it is cooked in quantity for a group. These are the realistic ways to try one:
- Resort Fijian nights. Many resorts host a weekly evening with a lovo buffet and a meke dance performance. Ask your resort which night it runs, as it often changes your plans for the week.
- Hands-on cooking class. The family-run Vavavi experience near Wailoaloa Beach in Nadi runs a five-hour session where you help prepare the pit, scrape coconuts, make coconut cream and wrap the food, then visit the local market while it cooks. Tourism Fiji notes it caters for dairy-free and vegan diets.
- Village visits and island day trips. Some tours include a lovo lunch. Check the itinerary wording, since "Fijian lunch" may or may not mean food from an earth oven.
- Private celebrations. For weddings, vow renewals and family reunions, many resorts can arrange a private lovo for your group. Allow plenty of notice.
If cooking classes interest you more broadly, our Fijian cooking classes guide compares other options.
Lovo etiquette for guests
- Watch the unearthing. Opening the lovo is often the highlight. Stay behind the hosts, as the stones and steam are extremely hot.
- Wait to be invited to serve. At a village or family lovo, hosts often serve guests first or invite them to begin; follow their lead.
- Dress modestly in villages. Cover shoulders and knees, and remove hats. A sulu (wrap) is easy to buy and wear.
- Ask before photographing people. Most hosts are happy to say yes, but ask first.
- Say thank you in Fijian. "Vinaka" is always appreciated, and "vinaka vakalevu" means thank you very much.
Tips for enjoying your first lovo
Lovo food is rich and heavy, so go easy at lunch if your Fijian night is the same evening. Fresh coconut water or a glass of local fruit juice suits the smoky flavours well. Root crops can be very filling; try small portions of everything first, then go back for the dishes you liked. If you have a shellfish or other allergy, ask what is inside each parcel, since they are wrapped and look alike once cooked.
Timing matters too. At a resort, the oven is usually opened shortly before dinner, and staff will often let guests watch if you ask at the activities desk earlier in the day. On a cooking class, wear clothes you don't mind getting smoky and bring sun protection, a hat and a water bottle, since much of the preparation happens outdoors. If you are travelling with a group, a private lovo is one of the most sociable meals you can arrange in Fiji, and it scales well from a dozen guests to a large family reunion.
Bottom line
For most visitors, the easiest lovo is at a resort Fijian night, and the most memorable is one you help cook. If food is a big part of your trip, book a hands-on class near Nadi for your first or last day, and ask your island resort which night it holds its lovo. We can build both into your itinerary when you plan with us.
Frequently asked questions
Is lovo food spicy?
Generally no. The flavour comes from smoke, coconut cream and the ingredients themselves. Spicier sauces or Indo-Fijian dishes may be served alongside.
Can children enjoy a lovo?
Yes. Children usually enjoy watching the oven being opened, and plain chicken, sweet potato and pumpkin suit younger eaters.
How is lovo different from a beach barbecue?
A barbecue grills food over open heat. A lovo steams and smokes food buried under leaves and soil for an hour or more, so it comes out softer and more evenly cooked.